The Peaceful Red Riot

A quick recap of an event that we'd witnessed in my first days in Hanoi.

Myself and the British guys I was hanging out with, had heard there was to be a big soccer match between Vietnam and Thailand. Not really knowing much about it other than the fact that everyone in the city seemed to be quite excited about it we'd decided to head out and find a place to eat outside the would also have a TV.

The match itself wasn't much of a spectacle. Thailand scored early on and Vietnam was trailing until the last minutes when a surprise header made the equalizer. Though the game ended in a tie, this was apparently a tournament and Vietnam had just beat Thailand for the first time in 11 years. That was NOT the interesting bit.

As we were departing the restaurant and started heading down the street of little restaurants we noticed people celebrating. The ones we came across were visibly happy and we had a few high fives and waves as we walked down the street. This didn't prepare us for what was to come.

Before our eyes was a roaring sea of red. Every piece of this huge intersection was suffocated with screaming Vietnamese on motorbikes. Each was wearing a red headband and usually with a passenger or two waving giant Vietnamese flags. The flag, though I'm sure you knew this, is just red with a big yellow star in the middle.

The ones who weren't randomly screaming were chanting something that sounded like "Vietnam # 1," later we found out it means Vietnam is the Champion. For some reason they were quite amused that there were foreigners present and seemed quite intent on having us share in their excitement. All who stopped next to us made sure to give us high-fives, handshakes and smiles.

We kept commenting to each other that had a foreigner just stepped out of their hotel and observed what was going on, one clearly could assume this was the coming of the second communist revolution and the Americans were getting kicked out ... again.

My mates decided to buy some flags, quite convenient that the flag makers are everywhere, and we proceeded down to the big lake which makes up the center of Hanoi. When we caught sight of the scene at the lake, we'd realized that the intersection was just the tip of the iceberg.

There was a virtual parking lot around the lake. It seemed like every person in Hanoi had come out to join in the celebrations. Each screaming, waving a flag. Here were also some small cars and trucks, also loaded to the top with people. Some blasted music, other sang songs, complete strangers embraced each other.

The Brits took notice that what was unique about this was that unlike a typical sports riot, not a single person appeared to be drinking. Moreover, there was no violence or damage being created. We barely even saw any police. We postulated that this may be due to the mind control the authorities have exhibited over the years but who knows for sure, but that's a tad speculative.

Everyone was friendly, no one seemed drunk or violent. Of course, we being the rowdy foreigners went and purchased beers and sat on the sidewalk and just watched it unfurl. Many people came up and talked to us, despite their limited English, to share in their happiness.




At one point, one of the British guys hopped onto a motorbike and went for a cruise around the lake waving a giant flag. In a flash of an eye, he'd disappeared into the crowd. The remaining guy and I made wagers as to whether he'd ever return from this "trip" on a strangers bike.

Around 3am we started to head back to the hotel, the parade/riot was still going at the very same intensity. We wondered just how much of the country would make it to work the next day. Both of us, still not quite sure what we'd just witnessed.



A quick follow-up to the comment about police control in Hanoi. The bars officially close a midnight. These are meant mostly for foreigners as it seems the Vietnamese prefer nightclubs or just staying at home. However, as it seems, a system has emerged where one or two bars pay off the cops every night to stay open. People from the UK and Ireland would recognize this as an old fashioned lock in. Essentially, the lights are turned out and the front door is locked, yet all the patrons remain drinking.

In other bars, the police will come and sometimes even blow a loud whistle inside the bar. Everyone is told to leave. If you happen to be in the lucky bar that night, the bartender will come around with a wink and tell you to stay until the cops leave. If you are in the unlucky bar for that night, you will be escorted out and probably proceed through the streets which at this point are completely empty, to the bar that is open.

Gotta love being in a communist country.

A few more blurry pics @ dimakay.fotki.com