Thursday, December 25, 2008

We're a long way from Brooklyn Toto.



Here goes, a foray into the annals of memories. It's now late January but this took place some time in November. Excuse me if it's fragmented but the memories start to fade a bit. Nevertheless, these are some of my thoughts from those times in France.


One of the truest values I found in my time in France was my trip the la campagne, or the countryside. I had the amazing chance to spend time in a tiny village in Southern Burgundy. This was simply something out of a story book (an elaborately illustrated one at that.) Quaint little houses sprinkled across vast green fields filled with grazing cows.

It was hear that I had the opportunity to eat, all in the same meal, Organic Beef that was raised about 500 ft. away, vegetables from the garden outside the house, cheese produced locally, bread baked in town and of course Burgundy wine, also made in the region. For those noticing a trend of my posts leanings towards the gastronomical when writing about France, you are most correct. That is not all however.

The average French farmer seems to understand far more about the world and the way it works than the typical Texan, at least based on my limited experience with both. As my first night unfolded sitting around an old wooden table with 10 other people whose English amounted to my French, I was pegged with numerous questions ranging from American politics to culture.

Of course, as I said before, the buzz about Obama was huge and many felt that aside from being a big step forward for America it could amount to a big step forward for nations developed nations in Western Europe as they too will have to look inwards.

It was also on many of these nights that I started forming my theory that the French are socialists! Sure they won't admit it, especially with a (as they profess) right wing president in power who demands the French actually work more! How strange...

The truth is, after centuries under Monarchy and many more years of revolutions, the urge to protest and fight for rights or just plain desires is now woven into the fabric of French life. This desire for quality of life can actually be observed in their day to day conversations. The way a Frenchman talks about food, work or politics will tell you just what he values in life.


At the time, still being a bit fresh from the States it was nice to notice this contrast compared to the work absorbed for no purpose other than survival mode that I had be raised with. Worry not, I haven't lost ALL desire to work ;)

Yes, not everyone can live like this and I'm sure many people do this in the States as well, but it was nice to be seemingly dropped into an alternate world. A place with blue skies, green grass (though not quite as green as Ireland), a slower pace of life, a devotion to food and yet an ear to the world.

A few more pictures at http://public.fotki.com/Dimakay/travel/mornay/

Thursday, December 18, 2008

France, Is it time for assiette du fromage yet?


Und so ... Way behind on updates am I. I'm currently in Germany but my lappy is unfortunately, dead. This will probably reflect a slight shift in the length and detail of these posts as I will now only be writing from Internet cafe's or the odd kind soul that lends me their computer. I even had a whole long post all ready about France but I guess it's good that now I shall have to be brief and perhaps write more often.

France, in short was an adventure in many palettes. From food to politique, I can say that my mind has been opened, expanded and snapped back with the French perspective. I visited a few places in the country and while it's impossible to detail it all, I'll give a few highlights. First off was, Lyon.

Lyon as a city was simply dead to me. The streets seemed devoid of life. The two rivers that bordered rushed through as if careening on their way to something better. They did their best to reflect the gray buildings, aging in line. Yes, this was an old European city and all of the architecture and to an extent the people were doing their best to make sure it always appeared so.

I am told the city is far more vibrant in the summer months, but the fall seemed to bring with it only gray. Not quite sure if it was the sky reflecting off of the buildings or the people reflecting off of the sky. Despite this I was able to find warm in the confines of a 5th floor apartment on the outskirts. It was here where I was able to look out onto the city, expand my ears on french music, discourse on politik and of course get my first exposure to the wonderful french kitchen.

Here's the one thing they don't want you to know. Ready? The secret to a large portion of French cuisine is a combination of a few key ingredients. Typically, they are Eggs, some sort of cheese, Cream Fraiche (or some sort of sour cream} and lardons. This last ingredient is probably the only one you can't really find stateside. It is typically little cubes that are half pork and half lard, aka fat. They are fatty and salty but are a key ingredient.

Then all you have to do is beat them together with a mixer, throw them together in a pan or some other form of combining them and then bake, fry or place them on a pie crust. Of course there are variations and most French people would be quite upset at this over simplicizing of their cuisine, but when is a French person not upset? There you have it, the secret is out. Go look up recipes for staples like Quiche Loraine, Tartiflette, Raclette or even a Carbonarra which is not French but next to the Döner, might as well be the 2nd national dish.

This is in no way a rant on French cuisine, quite the oppossite actually. The truth is the average person their has a far better understanding of food then the typical label reading, calorie counting American. It blew my mind to know that some of these wonderfully delicious dishes were created with the simplest of ingredients and procedures.

Then there is assiette du fromage or Cheese Plate. That's right, this a plate usually with 4-5 different types of cheeses that every French person has in the their fridge at any time. The wonderful thing is that typically, this plate is brought out AFTER the main dish and before dessert. So there you are, eating your wonderful main dish which probably already has some sort of cheese and boom, they bring out yet another plate of just cheese.

Of course, one adjusts to this style of dining rather quickly, especially when it's coupled with fantastic wine and bread. I was told by my friend that I must've been French in another lifetime because of how quick I took to these foods and way of living. I'm not sure if I fully agree but to say that my attitude towards food hasn't been adjusted would be a vicious lie.

More to come

Here's a quick jam I had with a brilliant Pianist/Guitarist in Lyon. The Savvy can find another video in the same place.